enrique olvera cosme

Published by on November 13, 2020

“Do you know the architect Luis Barragán? “Atla is a happy place where people can have breakfast, lunch and dinner,” says Soto-Innes. People wouldn’t know that unless you lived in Mexico City. I am grateful to them. They’re focused on making the best sushi. It was special because it came at such a late age, and from such an unexpected place. You know: ‘If I died tomorrow, I don’t want modernist food, I want the quesadilla.’ And that time, it was…it was fucked-up-good. It was nothing in particular, the place. You know? But that was one of those. But every dish I put on the menu I think is pretty damn good. You make the tortilla out of masa; and the queso has to be really fresh. The Tortilla Movement led by Enrique Olvera's Molino El Pujol looks to protect Mexico's culinary heritage from the effects of mass-produced tortillas. When I was working at Pujol, I always said: You shouldn’t mess with classics. Two months go by before I eat at Cosme again. When we first opened Cosme, I wanted to do flavors I thought New York would recognize easily, and weren’t challenging. Both often land high on the annual list of World’s 50 Best restaurants, and Eater’s own roving critic Bill Addison calls Cosme one of the best restaurants in America. So it’s very different from Cosme. In many ways Enrique Olvera precisely fits the mold of Red­zepi, Chang, Brock—chefs who see their restaurant kitchens as instruments of culture and ecology as much as cuisine. [Laughs] No, really. A couple of years later, he opened Atla in the same city, and in 2019, he plans to open a new venue in the Design District of Los Angeles, setting his foot also in the West Coast. And then cream with charred vanilla beans. I’ve never wanted to do mole because I felt I could only screw up. Given the way the place is Instagrammed ad infinitum, he should be fine. When I talk about it, I get goose bumps. I think a lot of modern chefs think that cooking is more an art form and about ideas. We make new mole, and keep adding it to the old one. I taste all three and wonder how his dishes can be so bold and clean. So I figured, why don’t we reheat it for fifteen days? You never know what’s going to happen. “I want to go to Oaxaca,” he tells me, “and live a nice and quiet life with cows. Enrique relays all of this with cheerful calm, over drinks at a terrible sports bar, chosen for its proximity to his apartment. We were at a food symposium and there was a friend of mine that put it in a little shop. Enrique grew up in Querétaro, to the northwest of Mexico City, and loved cooking from “the day I made my first mud pie.” At nineteen he attended the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York, and met the woman who would become his wife, a SUNY Purchase anthropology major named Allegra Piacentini—who bears startling resemblance to a young Giovanna Mezzogiorno. The Best Dishes Eater Editors Ate This Week, Rising Venice Star Restaurant Yours Truly Is LA’s Latest Pandemic Closure, Pasadena Bucks County Health Order, Will Continue to Allow Outdoor Dining. During the pandemic, chef Enrique Olvera has completely rethought his companies, Grupo Enrique Olvera in Mexico and Casamata in the U.S. And now it has, like, 200 ingredients in there. My creative process is very pure. Real caviar with hazelnut sauce, and then, hazelnut caviar with caviar sauce. [Chuckles.] And the only way you can make a better mole is by reheating it. Biggest Names in Food Gather for #50BestTalks San Francisco. When I made this, I was under the influence from the ‘here and now’ movement from René [Redzepi]. It was the first time for a lot of us where something that you had at home was being now presented like that, in Mexican food, in a formal context. We may have to move.” The chef de cuisine, Daniela, brings us a dish for him to try: a yellow corn tostada with fatty tuna belly and sea urchin. René Redzepi, David Chang, and Danny Bowien ate there—together—its opening month. His speech is peppered with literary references. Really, there’s not a lot of new flavors I feel like I’ve tasted in the last five years. And not just Alex—Rick Bayless, too. When I arrive, Enrique has just added razor clams with celery salsa, purple asparagus with fresh almond and white eggplant salsa, and crispy octopus with mole and watercress to the menu. Daniella [Soto-Innes, chef de cuisine] was the first one who told me, “We should do a meringue, like the one that we have in La Gran Via,” a very famous pastry shop in Mexico City. He is a chef from another country that revolutionized his homeland’s cuisine to the point of international regard. He shows me pictures of each child, as well as of the family’s two cats and Maya the dog. The room has a distinctly Japanese feel, as do Enrique’s restaurants in Mexico City. Either on its own will be great, but they cancel each other out.” This is exactly true. The level of execution was crazy. One day, a friend asked me to go cook at his restaurant. That perfect quesadilla? I ordered sole with foie gras and truffles, and it was wrapped in cabbage. There was a cook there who made a meal for us, and he did the salsa with chicatanas (ants)—a very traditional salsa that you eat with pork and tortillas. And she’s super soft-spoken and gentle.”, “Men used to knit—there’s a lot of photographs of men sitting on barrels or sitting on the upside-down boat knitting their own jumpers.”. Now chef-owner Enrique Olvera and chef de cuisine Daniela Soto-Innes are planning a second branch in Los Angeles and an expansion of their newly opened Atla neighbourhood concept. It has heft from the corn. It’s one of the most beautiful dishes. I couldn’t get enough of it. Vogue may earn a portion of sales from products that are purchased through our site as part of our Affiliate Partnerships with retailers. With the aid of a drip feed of mouth-watering teaser pics in the run-up to the launch via Soto-Innes’s Instagram account – she has 32,000 followers – it’s no surprise Atla has had queues of people outside the door since its opening last month. If you just have a scoop of mole, nothing more, it’d be like: What the fuck’s wrong with this guy? That’s what I think plating should be like.”, Enrique also has endemic rebelliousness. The first time I had a perfect quesadilla was in Oaxaca, when my parents took us there for a holiday. Normally, you’d take the meringue, put the cream on the meringue, and add a second meringue on top. A week later I am back home. How he cuts the fish is different. “We questioned how we used to do things, and I think we’re coming out of the pandemic a lot stronger.”. But when the school year started, she returned to Mexico City. As previously, it offers a six-course, multi-choice tasting menu, but featuring several new dishes, plus a separate area serving tacos. I always felt like doing somebody else’s food was cheating. He and Alice Waters have bonded over this. Grooming: Losi. When the news broke a couple of years back that Enrique Olvera of Pujol renown was going to open up shop in New York City, the restaurant-opening hype cycle kicked into overdrive. All rights reserved. In Mexico City to keep my husband company on a work trip—and at Pujol only for coffee with Andoni—I hadn’t even thought to book a table here. And he was making his U.S. debut a stone’s throw from the Flatiron Building in the most volatile, insane food scene in America—possibly the world. More on this as it comes. It needs to be mixed perfectly. "Meet one of the best chefs in the world, and the person who least wants me to call him that.” The praise is from the Basque chef Andoni Luis Aduriz, with whom I am drinking espresso in Mexico City on a chilly morning last winter. And given the way Olvera’s success has seemed like a natural, necessary evolution of Mexican food in the U.S. and the world at-large—as much as it is the ascent of one of the world’s great chefs of his time— he should be much, much more than fine. People liked the food, but they weren’t coming back. And they keep the lean tuna to do the chu-toro. We should just serve it with tortillas. The busiest station is a large iron plancha, being continually refilled with deep purple tortillas. He trained as a chef at The Culinary Institute of America. Damian, which Enrique Olvera is opening for patio dining in Los Angeles, is billed as the “twin brother” of Cosme in New York City. Running at a lower occupancy meant reconsidering almost every aspect of his business, says Olvera, 44—from scheduling, to menu design, to food prep and the amount of dishes on the menu. I would see, for example, Thomas Keller’s book, notice the soft-shell crab with the salad—but instead of doing that salad, we would serve cucumbers.

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